Riding our Thumbs into the North Cascades

Photos and Story By Ben Kunz Well you’ve probably never heard of the Toyota MasterAce. It is the original name of the Toyota van distributed worldwide from 1982-1989. These vans have a bit of a cult following , much like Volkswagen vans.  And they are equally infamous for breaking down. Recently, on a climbing trip to Washington Pass, the North Cascades granite playground, it was my partner’s turn to drive. We planned to take his beloved Tawny, a 1986 Toyota van that has its quirks. So I suppose it wasn’t a huge surprise when we broke down near Rockport, WA. Without cell phone service it took considerable effort to find a phone and get AAA involved. While we waited I reflected on how comfortable our lives are compared to our…

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American Road Tripping

Photos and Story By Ben Kunz The climbing road trip has become a defining part of being an American climber.  The freedom of packing up a vehicle and travelling to dreamy crags across this Great Land is part of our climbing culture.  Last year marked a chance to fulfill a dream of taking some serious time explore some of the best climbing this country has to offer. The High Sierra Galen Rowell’s amazing photography opened up my world to the High Sierra.  These amazing mountains with its excellent rock boasts some of American’s finest alpine routes! “The best alpine wall in the country.” – Peter Croft, about the Incredible Hulk Tyrolean traverse on Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag:

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The Sprinter Experience: Living in a Van Down by the River…er Crag

Photos and Story By Ben Kunz When Daimler Benz merged with Chrysler way back in 1998, it wasn’t even a blip on my radar, nothing that I needed to worry or care about! But within a year, I started seeing the Sprinter Van, Mercedes gift to North American mid-sized cargo carriers. When I first saw this hardcore Euro-styled van, I did some research and quickly did the math on these genius homes on wheels.

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Speed Ascent Recap: Chad Kellogg’s Oxygen-Less Attempt on Everest

Chad Kellogg shares the details of his oxygen-less attempt on Everest. We are proud of Chad and his efforts. Read the details of his summit attempt here: “At 2:45 pm with all hands ready to see me off, I paid my traditional respects for safe travel. Offering incense, water, rice and making three circumnavigations of the team stuppa. When all was in order, I posed with my friends for some photos and reminded myself that this was going to be fun and to enjoy every step.

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: Summit Day

 On May 22nd 2013 Chad will attempt to set the speed record for an ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. Chad spent years training and planning for this event, here he explains what is involved, his strategy and what this record means to him. Here’s his plan: “At 3 pm May 22nd I will start up from Base Camp, 17,350 ft. At 6:30 pm I plan to arrive to Camp 2, 21,450 ft. 15 minute changeover in Camp 2 getting water, carbo and electrolyte powder mix, gloves, balaclava and down suit. At 7:45 pm arrive to the base of the Lhotse Face. Change into 8,000 meter boots and crampons. Arrive 9 pm to Camp 3, 23,300 ft. 15 minutes to refill 2 liters of water and mix more powdered…

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: The Training

 To prepare for his speed ascent on Everest, Chad spent months training himself to be the mental and physical solution to the challenge. Learn how Chad used basic weight training, long-distance trail running, and stair intervals to prepare for his climb.

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Chad Kellogg on Everest – Camp 3 to South Col

I arrived to the South Col 6 hours and 10 minutes after leaving Camp 3. The time was 12:40 pm. May 12th was Mothers Day back home so I put together my SAT phone and called my Mom. The wind was blowing too strongly for a lengthy conversation, but I sent her my love from Nepal and told her that I was thinking of her at 26,000 ft. 

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: The Objective

In April 2013, Chad Kellogg returned to Everest to set the speed record. For Chad, a solo ascent of the world’s highest summit without oxygen is the ultimate accomplishment in speed climbing. Here he explains what this ascent means to him and what he hopes to gain.

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Chad Kellogg Everest Expedition – Camp 3 to the Yellow Band

The scene on Everest has settled down and Chad is continuing to prepare for his speed ascent. He and his partner Rory just completed a round of acclimatization, sleeping at Camp 3 and climbing as high as the Yellow Band at 24,700. Many of you know I love alpine climbing, the small team and the lack of people. You may ask, “what the heck are you doing in the Everest zoo fest?” Despite the hordes of “climbers,” guides and Sherpas, the Mountains are still awe inspiring. I have chosen a style of climbing that is so difficult for me that I have had much to learn from the mountain. Many of you know that I believe in the “old school” technique of the sequential learning curve. You take on the…

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