Deep water Soloing & Standup Paddling In Texas

By Dave Costello A border patrol agent in army fatigues is riffling through my drybag, awkwardly straddling the three 12’ 6” rental standup paddleboards (SUPs) hanging out the back of our short-bed pickup. The nearest water is at the U.S.-Mexico border 30 miles away on Lake Amistad. A five-year drought has left the reservoir on the Rio Grande nearly bone-dry. The nearest surfable waves are 300 miles away in the Gulf of Mexico. I can’t blame him for thinking that three dudes with boards in the middle of the desert look a little suspicious. We do. But we’re not after waves. We’re looking for rock. I’d been tipped off that the climbing in the Lower Pecos River Canyon was first rate, and mostly untouched, since it could only be accessed…

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Climbing Mystery Mountain: Mt. Waddington

  Mount Waddington is almost a nightmare in its grim inaccessibility, draped with plumes of huge, crumbling ice-feathers. -Don Munday Don and Phyllis Munday first set their eyes on the 13,186 ft. peak in 1925 from Mount Arrowsmith, on Vancouver Island. Dubbed as “Mystery Mountain,” Mt. Waddington’s very existence was questioned before it was initially explored by the couple that same year. Though they made several attempts to climb the mountain and reached its lower northwest summit in 1928, the first ascent was made over ten years later by Fritz Wiessner and Bill House via the South Face in 1936. The climb to the summit and back to base camp took over 23 hours. Grateful for good climbing conditions, the team followed a left branch of the couloir and reached a snow patch…

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The ultimate Road Trip: Life with Katrin and Lars Schneider

Katrin and Lars Schneider are living a life most of us envy—for more than ten years, they have been traveling, exploring and working together all around the world. Their photography and writing showcases a great variety of outdoor pursuits from backpacking, kayaking, freeriding, ski touring and snowshoeing, to mountain biking, yoga, trail running and bike touring. Take a look at their blog, and get inspired to take your own journey. Lars and Katrin gave us an inside look on what life is really like on the ultimate road trip:          

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Riding our Thumbs into the North Cascades

Photos and Story By Ben Kunz Well you’ve probably never heard of the Toyota MasterAce. It is the original name of the Toyota van distributed worldwide from 1982-1989. These vans have a bit of a cult following , much like Volkswagen vans.  And they are equally infamous for breaking down. Recently, on a climbing trip to Washington Pass, the North Cascades granite playground, it was my partner’s turn to drive. We planned to take his beloved Tawny, a 1986 Toyota van that has its quirks. So I suppose it wasn’t a huge surprise when we broke down near Rockport, WA. Without cell phone service it took considerable effort to find a phone and get AAA involved. While we waited I reflected on how comfortable our lives are compared to our…

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American Road Tripping

Photos and Story By Ben Kunz The climbing road trip has become a defining part of being an American climber.  The freedom of packing up a vehicle and travelling to dreamy crags across this Great Land is part of our climbing culture.  Last year marked a chance to fulfill a dream of taking some serious time explore some of the best climbing this country has to offer. The High Sierra Galen Rowell’s amazing photography opened up my world to the High Sierra.  These amazing mountains with its excellent rock boasts some of American’s finest alpine routes! “The best alpine wall in the country.” – Peter Croft, about the Incredible Hulk Tyrolean traverse on Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag:

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The Sprinter Experience: Living in a Van Down by the River…er Crag

Photos and Story By Ben Kunz When Daimler Benz merged with Chrysler way back in 1998, it wasn’t even a blip on my radar, nothing that I needed to worry or care about! But within a year, I started seeing the Sprinter Van, Mercedes gift to North American mid-sized cargo carriers. When I first saw this hardcore Euro-styled van, I did some research and quickly did the math on these genius homes on wheels.

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Speed Ascent Recap: Chad Kellogg’s Oxygen-Less Attempt on Everest

Chad Kellogg shares the details of his oxygen-less attempt on Everest. We are proud of Chad and his efforts. Read the details of his summit attempt here: “At 2:45 pm with all hands ready to see me off, I paid my traditional respects for safe travel. Offering incense, water, rice and making three circumnavigations of the team stuppa. When all was in order, I posed with my friends for some photos and reminded myself that this was going to be fun and to enjoy every step.

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: Summit Day

On May 22nd 2013 Chad will attempt to set the speed record for an ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. Chad spent years training and planning for this event, here he explains what is involved, his strategy and what this record means to him. Here’s his plan: “At 3 pm May 22nd I will start up from Base Camp, 17,350 ft. At 6:30 pm I plan to arrive to Camp 2, 21,450 ft. 15 minute changeover in Camp 2 getting water, carbo and electrolyte powder mix, gloves, balaclava and down suit. At 7:45 pm arrive to the base of the Lhotse Face. Change into 8,000 meter boots and crampons. Arrive 9 pm to Camp 3, 23,300 ft. 15 minutes to refill 2 liters of water and mix more powdered fuel…

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: The Training

To prepare for his speed ascent on Everest, Chad spent months training himself to be the mental and physical solution to the challenge. Learn how Chad used basic weight training, long-distance trail running, and stair intervals to prepare for his climb.

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