The Sherpa Support Fund

The tragic death of 16 Sherpas in the April 18 icefall avalanche on Mount Everest has deeply affected the alpine climbing community. As families, friends and colleagues struggle with the sadness, many are also seeking and establishing ways to support the families left behind. One such organization is The American Alpine Club (AAC), a longtime MSR partner whose mission is to “support our shared passion for climbing and respect for the places we climb.” In the wake of the event, the AAC quickly responded by establishing The Sherpa Support Fund. The purpose of the fund is to lend aid and support to the families of the fallen climbers and the communities affected by this tragedy. We spoke with AAC Executive Director Phil Powers to bring you more information about the…

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Speed Ascent Recap: Chad Kellogg’s Oxygen-Less Attempt on Everest

Chad Kellogg shares the details of his oxygen-less attempt on Everest. We are proud of Chad and his efforts. Read the details of his summit attempt here: “At 2:45 pm with all hands ready to see me off, I paid my traditional respects for safe travel. Offering incense, water, rice and making three circumnavigations of the team stuppa. When all was in order, I posed with my friends for some photos and reminded myself that this was going to be fun and to enjoy every step.

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: Summit Day

 On May 22nd 2013 Chad will attempt to set the speed record for an ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. Chad spent years training and planning for this event, here he explains what is involved, his strategy and what this record means to him. Here’s his plan: “At 3 pm May 22nd I will start up from Base Camp, 17,350 ft. At 6:30 pm I plan to arrive to Camp 2, 21,450 ft. 15 minute changeover in Camp 2 getting water, carbo and electrolyte powder mix, gloves, balaclava and down suit. At 7:45 pm arrive to the base of the Lhotse Face. Change into 8,000 meter boots and crampons. Arrive 9 pm to Camp 3, 23,300 ft. 15 minutes to refill 2 liters of water and mix more powdered…

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: The Training

 To prepare for his speed ascent on Everest, Chad spent months training himself to be the mental and physical solution to the challenge. Learn how Chad used basic weight training, long-distance trail running, and stair intervals to prepare for his climb.

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Chad Kellogg on Everest – Camp 3 to South Col

I arrived to the South Col 6 hours and 10 minutes after leaving Camp 3. The time was 12:40 pm. May 12th was Mothers Day back home so I put together my SAT phone and called my Mom. The wind was blowing too strongly for a lengthy conversation, but I sent her my love from Nepal and told her that I was thinking of her at 26,000 ft. 

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Chad Kellogg on Everest: The Objective

In April 2013, Chad Kellogg returned to Everest to set the speed record. For Chad, a solo ascent of the world’s highest summit without oxygen is the ultimate accomplishment in speed climbing. Here he explains what this ascent means to him and what he hopes to gain.

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Chad Kellogg Everest Expedition – Camp 3 to the Yellow Band

The scene on Everest has settled down and Chad is continuing to prepare for his speed ascent. He and his partner Rory just completed a round of acclimatization, sleeping at Camp 3 and climbing as high as the Yellow Band at 24,700. Many of you know I love alpine climbing, the small team and the lack of people. You may ask, “what the heck are you doing in the Everest zoo fest?” Despite the hordes of “climbers,” guides and Sherpas, the Mountains are still awe inspiring. I have chosen a style of climbing that is so difficult for me that I have had much to learn from the mountain. Many of you know that I believe in the “old school” technique of the sequential learning curve. You take on the…

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As the Glacier Churns: Unfortunate Events on Everest

A Report from Chad Kellog MSR Ambassador Chad Kellog is on Mount Everest, acclimatizing for his 2013 speed attempt from Base Camp to the summit. Earlier this week, Chad reported from Base Camp after a violent incident occurred between a group of European climbers and a group of Sherpas at Camp 2. “I want to say that there were four or five men responsible for this unfortunate incident at Camp 2. Since I do not know their names I have used the name “Sherpas” to represent the mob of men who rallied against Ueli Steck, Simone Moro and Jonathan Griffith. However, I do not want to misrepresent the Sherpa community that I have grown to love over the past 15 years of traveling to Nepal and sharing in adventures with…

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