“Link Sar has Been Climbed”—American Team Makes First Ascent
The Karakoram peak was one of the highest unclimbed summits left in the world.
Alpine Strongholds: The Remote Mountaineering Tent
“A mountaineering tent is your first line of defense against some of most severe and inhospitable conditions on the earth,” says Eric Larsen. As a record-setting polar explorer, mountaineer and guide, he knows. “I’ve literally spent years of my life living in a tent on one adventure or another. A well-designed tent is integral to your safety, and even survival.” When MSR set out to redefine what a mountaineering tent could be, we worked closely with Eric. The result? Our Remote Mountaineering Series—expedition-grade, guide-worthy tents that deliver the benefits that big-mountain climbers need, with less weight and modern engineering. “From 8,000 meter peaks to Mt. Rainier and everything in between, if you’re only going to have one mountaineering tent in your quiver this is your choice,” Eric says. Mountaineering Tents…
How to: Train Like an Alpinist
The principles of training to push your limits, by big mountain skier-turned-mountaineer Caroline Gleich.
Alpine Mentors: Teaching the Next Generation
How the torch of alpine wisdom is passed down to the next generation of mountaineers.
45 Years of Redefining Outdoor Gear Design
Journey into MSR’s past to see the many MSR innovations that pioneered new safety and design standards in outdoor gear.
Skiing and Climbing Alaska’s Remarkable Ruth Gorge
By Scott Rinckenberger When I was invited on a mission to spend two weeks climbing and skiing the Ruth Gorge in Denali National Park, I knew I’d have to bring some pretty serious equipment. Fortunately MSR was willing to help outfit the expedition. I’m exceedingly thankful for the gear, but that’s not all I picked up from the MSR HQ before my departure. I also ran into a long time friend, and while I was being told to “be safe” by nearly everyone who heard the plan, it was the words from my friend Diane which put me on the right track for the trip – “Listen to the mountains.” Our plans included climbing lofty alpine walls in the Ruth Gorge, and climbing summits from their less-technical sides for some…
The Unpredictable Alpine
By Jewell Lund “Should we take bivy gear?” I peered up at the dauntingly sheer granite face of Mt. Huntington, the scale of which overwhelms base camp on the Tokositna Glacier. Standing so close to the mountain, I knew the colossal face was foreshortened. Traversing the systems all the way across the West Face could take a few hours, or more than a day. Who knew? “Um. Bivy gear could be nice?” This conversation has actually started via email a year ago. A friend had connected Chantel Astorga and me, knowing our mutual interest in alpine climbing. Pictures and ideas were bandied about regarding Mt. Huntington in the Alaska Range. We’d heard rumors of stellar rock quality and nightmarish corniced ridges, and most importantly promises of adventure. In November 2013,…
Leif Whittaker on the Privilege of Climbing Mountains
Photos and story by Leif Whittaker The view from the barren promontory above Namche Bazaar in Nepal looked out on a windswept hunk of the Himalaya where the sunrise struck, bathing the world’s highest mountain in flattering gold light. Dad and Mom stood next to me, their breath white in the frigid morning. The alpine air was redolent with juniper. We talked about climbing, a favorite subject of the guides, Sherpa, and photographers who clustered around us. I listened intently to Dad’s stories about his ascent of Mount Everest in 1963 and Mom’s stories about the 1978 K2 expedition. Though they spoke of daring, superhuman feats—like descending from 29,035 feet half blind and without bottled oxygen—I heard a conspicuous tone of humility in their voices, as if they acknowledged how lucky…
Second Ascents: The McNerthney Pillar
Photos and Story by Ben Kunz On July 20th, 2013, Tim Halder, Joe Sambataro and I completed the second ascent of the McNerthney Pillar on the north face of Mount Waddington in British Columbia’s Coast Range. This prodigious rock pillar was climbed by the Northwest’s own McNerthney brothers, Pat and Dan McNerthney, back in 1986. Despite the appeal of this beautiful rock pillar and “providing far and away the most powerful climbing line of this face of Waddington”, it had yet to see a repeat ascent. Climbing a big, steep route like the McNerthney Pillar was a huge undertaking for the three of us. Despite forays into the other Great Ranges (Peru, Alaska, Alps, Himalaya), none of us had climbed such a technical, once-touched line on such a colossal mountain…